Dates ........ Monday, September 2, 2002 Labor Day
Miles ........ 9.9 miles
From ........ East Carry Pond - tent camp
To ............. Kennebec River Crossing at US 201, Caratunk, ME (Rivers & Trails Cabins)
Weather ... Cloudy, light misty rain at times, 50 to mid 60's during day.

Monday, September 2, 2002 Labor Day

Pierce Pond and Stream, Kennebec River, Caratunk ME US 201

I was up and back on the trail by sunup. It was nice, not having any big mountains to climb for a change. The trail was no less rugged, just not as inclined. Today's goal was the Kennebec River crossing. I had a decision to make: Be at the river crossing by 11 to catch the morning ferry or take my time and catch the afternoon ferry. I wanted to make the morning ferry, so I had to hustle. My pack was very light, nearly empty of food, and that enabled me to travel more quickly. That, and the kinder, gentler terrain.

Swamps. The very word conjures up all kinds of unpleasant images for most people. Snakes, slithery critters, brackish water, unpleasant bugs, muck and mud, etc. But swamps can be beautiful. Placid water, abundant, and unique plant and animal life, lush, rich mosses and ferns, nature at work in a mysterious, unique way. This segment of trail, not in the elevations of the mountains, crossed a lot of swampland, and, I must say, it was uniquely beautiful and enchanting in its own way. The beauty of the swamps and bogs slowed me down admiring them as much as did the enchanting beauty of the roaring cascade of Pierce Pond Stream and gorge. I regretted I had to hurry through this magnificent area.

But, I was spurred on by visions of something equally beautiful - a sizzling hot burger and a plateful of golden French fries. Ok, I'll admit - when hiking I am a food slut! Guilty as charged!

Pierce Pond was pretty. At the shelter there I met a nice young girl that was just beginning a trek of 200 miles. It was her first backpacking experience. I knew that by the size of her pack. She must have brought the kitchen sink, too. She'd learn soon enough. It had taken her two days to hike the four miles she had hiked. She didn't seem interested in help or advice, so I bid her well, wished her luck and moved on.

The trail went directly across the top of the Pierce Pond dam. Lots of water seemed to be getting through. Indeed, the stream below was a roaring cascade as it plunged through its gorge on its way to the great Kennebec River. What a magnificent gorge. Water carved rocks channeled the rushing water over falls and through rapids, gushing cascades and crystal clear deep pools. Most of the time the trail went right along the stream edge. Other times it meandered off into the woods to go around an obstacle or high above on the rim of a deep gorge, the stream cascading below. The woods adjacent to the gorge were a beautiful lush green, often covered in a rich green moss, apparently attributable to moisture and a lack of sunshine in the deep gorge. The rushing, at times roaring, sound of the water was ever present. For three and a half glorious miles I followed this marvelous cascade down its gorge and through the woods to the Kennebec River and my ferry crossing. And, ultimately, my hamburger!

Pierce Pond Stream cascades and channels down the mountain on its way to the Kennebec River

I got to the ferry crossing and raised the signal flag at 10:25 A.M. Not bad; 10 miles in 3.5 hours including a stop at the Pierce Pond shelter and time taken for lots of photographs. The Kennebec was the only river or stream that I could not cross by stepping on stones sticking above the water - or that was a real body of flowing water that required a ferry crossing. Several other streams would have required a ford in knee-deep water had it not been for the prolonged dry spell Maine, and for that matter the entire northeast, was suffering from. At least there was a positive side to the drought - it made water crossings simple. The Kennebec's water levels were unpredictable because of water discharges from the upstream hydroelectric generating facility. At times the water level could rise suddenly by 3 or 4 feet. Even at its low level, it was a swift, formidable body of water that would be, at best, difficult and unsafe, to ford. A sudden rise in water levels had catastrophic results on some hikers fording it in the past.

Muskrat slid his canoe across the rocks and into the swift waters of the far shore and expertly paddled it across the fast moving river. I removed my pack, put on the life jacket, signed the release and took up a paddle in the bow. I waited for Muskrat's ferry-operator tour to end at 11 at which time he gave me a ride to the "Rivers and Trails" outfitter's camp. It was a quaint little country store with hiker and camper's essentials, a large teepee out back, a plastic outhouse, a camping area and four little roadside cabins. I took a bunkhouse rate on one of the cabins, meaning I might have to share it with others. It had a stove, fridge and shower, and three beds. What more could a hiker want? Not bad for 15 bucks. I showered and did a small load of trail laundry, then got a ride from Steve up to Northern Outdoor Center (NOC) up the road. They had a nice restaurant and served up the big burger and fries I had been dreaming of. I walked back to Steve's camp.

I got my mail drop and was in the process of reorganizing my pack when Steve came by and asked if I minded sharing the cabin with a woman. Of course I did not, having spent many a night on the trail in a shelter with a woman. The gal turned out to be Sunshine, whom I had met on the trail a couple of days ago. She was welcome company. As the afternoon went on, more hikers came to the camp. Around dinnertime, we all got together - 9 of us- and went up the NOC for dinner. While waiting for my order, I made a few phone calls home. NOC also had a nice micro-brewery and several of us got the 6-glass sampler of different beers. A good dinner and fun time was had by all. I had their steak special - 12$ for a huge steak and plateful of veggies and mashed potatoes. Yum Yum. It filled me up.

Dinner at NOC. Front row L to R: Cameron, Spyder, Buddah, Starvin Marvin. Back Row, L to R: Rainbird, BeFree (Spyder's brother), Free Spirit, Sunshine, Cheetah. Photo by NOC staff with my camera.

Steve picked us up at the appointed time and returned us to camp. I finished packing, made my P&J and cooked hot dog sandwiches and turned in for a fitful night's sleep. US 201 was, evidently, a main corridor for logging trucks - empty and full. They roared by all night long, on and off, interrupting my sleep. The cabins were only 20 feet from the road and these monsters sounded like they were driving right through the front door as they screamed by.

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