Free Spirit’s ( Al's )

Appalachian Trail Journal

Mt. Washington, NH to Mt. Katahdin, Maine

Northern Terminus of the Appalachian Trail

(Part 8)

Dates ........ Monday, August 19, 2002
Miles ........ 7.2 miles
From ........ Carter Notch hut NH
To ............. Imp Shelter and camp.
Weather ... Clear, Sunny, upper 70's, low 80's calm - hot.

Monday, August 19, 2002

Carter Dome 4832', Mt. Hight 4675', South Carter Mt. 4458', Middle Carter Mt. 4600', North Carter Mt. 4530'.

From my Mt. Washington starting point, Carter notch is only 5.5 miles "as the crow flies" but it is 19.5 grueling AT miles. Carter Notch completes the "2" I spoke of (8/17). A more direct route (than the AT) does exist. It would avoid Mt. Washington's summit and the northern Presidentials. The "bad weather route" goes from Lake of the Clouds Hut (at 5,000 feet - most of the way up Mt. Washington and still well above treeline) steeply down Tuckerman's ravine, into Pinkham's Notch, then up the Wildcats, over wildcat ridge and down into Carter Notch. But most of it would be a "blue blaze" trail, not be the AT. Like it or not, I'm here to follow the white-blazed AT. And I like it, or I wouldn't be doing it. Sometimes, though, it presents me with a bit more of a challenge than I am prepared for or like.

At 7:30 AM, feet and legs stiff and hurting from yesterday's brutal climbing, I left the Carter Notch hut and climbed up the side of Carter Dome (Yesterday's two photos before the Carter Pond). It was another "Holy S…t - the trail goes up there???" climb. Had I not taken a double dose of Vitamin I before bed and a full dose this morning, I'd have probably been unable to move. It was rocky and extremely steep - a repeat of yesterday. I seriously underestimated the difficulty of the terrain and my abilities on this section of trail. Originally, I had planned on 15.2 miles into Gorham, a call home and resupply. Well, there was no way that was going to happen. A seasoned hiker, his legs strong from hiking over 1800 continuous miles, and younger, could do that (Sly did.) but I just was not that seasoned and conditioned enough for this grueling trail section. Oh, I could have done it if I absolutely had to, and come into town late at night, but I would have been way beyond exhausted and really pushing the extreme limits of my endurance. That would be no fun, dangerous, and stupid. I recall somewhere that I am doing this for fun! I will fall one day behind schedule.

Add unusually warm temperatures and a lack of water to the equation and a challenging trial becomes more so. Hiking most of the day over 4,000 feet, water is non-existent. Exerting strenuously and sweating profusely places a large demand on my system for water, and makes me want lots more - which was simply not available between the hut and Imp camp. Fortunately I avoided dehydration by drinking lots of water last night and this morning, plus the quart I carried. Avoided dehydration, but not thirst. I would have drunk lots more water had it been available.

As I was clawing my way up over Carter Dome and Mountains I met Bill & Anita. Later in the day I met Leprechaun & Bear, Bigfoot & Gypsy. Bill and Anita, a very nice couple, were northbound peak baggers (a peak bagger's goal is to climb all the peaks over 4,000 feet in a state) and were going my way for a while. At 9:10, 100 minutes after I started I climbed the 1482 feet to the 4832' summit of Carter Dome along its rock face. Generally, I allow an hour for each 1,000 feet of climbing. In this case, it was just about right - about1500' in an hour and a half. But the day was just starting. At 9:50 I was on top of Mt. Hight after a 500-foot descent and 200 foot climb. At 11:03, after a heart-stopping 800-foot near vertical descent into Zeta Pass and a 500-foot climb, I summited South Carter Mt's 4458'. At 12:05, after dropping 300' and climbing 400' I was atop 4600' Middle Carter Mountain, and then a nearly level ridge walk brought me to the 4530' summit of North Carter Mt. at 12:40. From there I descended 1280' steeply into the Imp camp and shelter, arriving at 3:15 P.M. All this over 7.2 very rocky, hot, dry miles. I decided not to push on over the two Mount Moriahs and into Gorham. When he left in the morning, I told Sly, who was bent on doing the entire 15.2 miles and headed for the same hostel, to inform the operator I probably would be a day late.

It was demanding terrain, high, rocky, hot and dry - but was it awesome and unforgettable in its beauty. The massive Northern Presidentials were almost constantly in view, as were numerous others of New Hampshire's grand White Mountains. It was a spectacularly clear day, with almost no haze. Very comfortable when not struggling over rocks. To the north, I could see into Maine's Mahoosucs and Saddleback Ranges. It was so pleasant and gorgeous on top of Carter Dome and Mountains that I just wanted to sit there and take it all in. But, it was not to be. I had to keep putting more white blazes behind me. And, I knew I would not find water until I reached Imp camp.

Looking back, the cog railroad puffs smoke as it chugs its way past the chasm of the Great Gulf Wilderness to the summit of Mount Washington.

I was tired, thirsty and sore when I reached Imp Camp and I wanted to go no further, though I had three more hours available for hiking. Here I had a sure water source and shelter. If I pushed on it would be at least three more miles and up over two more mountains, and I knew I'd still be a day late coming into Gorham, NH - so what was the point? I needed a rest. Imp camp, named after nearby Imp Mountain, had a great shelter, a crude bench on a scenic rock overlook, several nice tent pads, a composting privy and a scant but adequate water source. The caretaker proudly explained every step in the complex composting process - including the $950.00 per hour charged by a helicopter to fly in the bark chips used for composting the "poo". The $6.00 fee was used to offset those and other costs. Mike, a southbound section hiker just starting out from Gorham, was surprised at the ruggedness of the terrain and two other southbounders wondered what the trail was like. I told them they had their work cut out for them and could expect some real serious challenges ahead.

Running behind schedule had more than one consequence for me - I was running low on food and was already into my "reserves". Often there is extra food left behind at a shelter or camp, from other hikers lightening their load. Luckily for me the caretaker had some Raman noodles left behind and Mike offered to heat some water for me. I had a decent supper and enough food for the next day, until I hit Gorham. I would not have starved but its always a good idea to have a little extra food in the wilderness.

I relaxed on the bench and enjoyed the view, turning into bed just after sunset. I had no problem falling asleep.

 

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~ Journal Part 8 ~

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09/01/02 09/02/02 09/03/02 09/04/02 09/05/02 09/06/02 09/07/02
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Last Updated 12/26/02